RP 94+
I tasted the bottled 2022 Migan, which was paler than the sample of 2023 I tasted next to it and also felt more reductive. Sixty-three percent of the wine was with lees in used 500- and 600-liter oak barrels, and the rest (from the Tio Luis plot) was kept with fine lees in a 4,200-liter concrete vat. It has 12% alcohol and is very volcanic, with clear reminiscences of pumice stone and lapilli ash but with the black peppercorns from Orotava also clearly there. It's a little lighter than the more complete 2023. 10,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2023.
2023 was drier in Tenerife than 2022 and was their earliest harvest everywhere except in Taganana where they had over 500 liters of rain, yet the wines from Envinate are phenomenal. In Santiago del Teide (Benje) it was warmer, with high peaks that blocked the plants and they had to lower the crop. It was a heterogeneous vintage there, and they had to harvest very early and sort and select and do shorter macerations that resulted in more immediate wines. They produced 50% less, even though they had leased a further three hectares. Now all their wines from the different zones are sold under the Tenerife appellation within Islas Canarias, and they have taken Benje out of the Ycoden-Daute-Isora DOP.
In La Orotava, 2023 was a very concentrated year that produced powerful wines with aging potential. Santa ursula is quite similar to La Orotava, as they neighbor each other. There was a fire there the 15th of August, but the wind blew in the opposite direction, and the wines did not get the much-feared smoke taint. But they harvested the first plots the sixth of August, and they had to pick the rest after the harvest, as the zone was cut off from traffic. In Taganana, 2023 was different from the rest of the island. It was the rainiest year there, they got higher crops and they have more vineyards. So, the wines from Taganana come from a textbook vintage when they harvested healthy grapes in good quantity, and the wines have a lot of finesse - a cooler and deeper version of the 2021s.